Why you should visit Japan's

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In Ozu, you can stay at a hotel dispersed across an ancient castle, samurai residences, and old merchant homes, while supporting the town's award-winning model of sustainable tourism.

I'd previously visited Ozu in 2018, making a quick stop to see its castle while on a trip further south. At that time many of the old town's buildings were neglected, some were abandoned, with a few even demolished. The city was fairly deserted and, after a quick stroll around, I continued on my way. Often referred to as a "little Kyoto" thanks to a similar historical appeal, Ozu was once the capital of the old Iyo feudal domain (much of present-day Ehime prefecture) from 1617 to 1868, and its merchants became wealthy from the production and trade of wax, silk, paper, and timber. However, Ozu's economic decline over the past century, like many river towns worldwide, led to decaying heritage sites and the exodus of residents to major cities.

tourist information center and local crafts and food emporium, resembled a lively village square, with local families mingling among the visitors. Heading to my hotel, I passed a row of elegant samurai residences with large gardens. One housed Shun, a restaurant serving Ozu's specialty of imotaki, a traditional stew of chicken, taro, and other vegetables, where a queue stretched out for lunch. On the opposite side of the street, in traditional castle town configuration, were merchants' establishments; their storehouses were newly plastered and white-washed and now home to cafes, bars, and a local history museum.